Rah j'étais sur que c'était une question de réglage cette caisse... Enfin pas que, mais que les réglages faisaient tout.
Elle a quand même sur le forum officiel un topic dédier pour les réglages ! Et en fait si j'ai bien compris, c'est un alien surtout, qui donne approximativement son réglage, avec + ou - de valeur selon les circuits, utilités, se que le pilote veut etc. Je me suis donc inspiré de ça.
Hier mon meilleur chrono était 1:32:1xx, se matin j'ai fais 1:31:8xx vraiment péniblement, avec des trajectoires moches. J'essaye un premier réglage, un truc juste milieu dans ce qu'il a mi, en favorisant la motricité en virage, gardant un train avant qui tourne bien, un train arrière légèrement joueur.. Premier essai 1:31:8xx... Je me dis, si simplement j'ai fais pareil, mais... Je la trouve trop lourde du train avant. J'ai juste un tout petit peu durcie la barre anti roulis arrière, et là... 1:31:465: 84ème meilleur temps sur 290. \o/
Pour les curieux, voici quand je dis un topic réglage...
The definitive V8 Supercar setup guide (last updated 10th March 2014)
- Written by all of us!
There have been a number of really helpful V8 setup related threads lately, so what I'm thinking is why don't we compile all this great setup info into one thread - so over time we can get the thread stickied and keep it up to date so it becomes a single point of reference for all things V8 setup related?
This setup info thread is a community driven resource, so if you feel knowledgeable in any of the areas listed below and are able to write a section as it applies to the V8 Supercar, please go ahead and then just paste it back in the thread and I will update the first post along with your name and the iRacing season # as soon as I see your post. That way the setup guide can be kept up to date as the info evolves over the iRacing seasons as physics changes are made to the car.
- General info on driving the V8
Remember that at it's core it's a big, heavy, under-tyred, under-braked, solid rear axle, road car with some aero bolted on. So it's going to tend to understeer at corner entry, oversteer at exit and not want to stop.
So back it up; brake a bit earlier, turn in earlier and hit the apex. Then slowly get back onto the throttle. Never stab it down like a bunch of flesh eating ants have crawled up your leg and started knawing.
Try to avoid the kerbs (and the grass) until you know you can catch a slide. This beast doesn't like uneven grip, so make sure you're pointed straight ahead before you're at full throttle.
Smooth inputs = smooth outputs. Make the car flow and you'll be rewarded with faster times. She doesn't like being overdriven and will punish you after 5 laps in a race if you're asking too much of the tyres.
“What you really notice about a v8 supercar relative to other cars is that [you cannot] take too much speed into the corner in this car, you need brake it very straight, very square and very hard to a lower target speed than your mind wants to. If you rush at the corner and put the steering lock on the car they push wide and what that does is delay getting the throttle on in the next segment of the race track.
It’s a question of trying to brake late but also trying to get the car slowed down enough, hustle it through the corner and get the throttle on early for a fast exit speed down the next straight”.
- Analysing your driving e.g. its not all setup
Where to start?
I'm going to recommend two tools. Well one tool and one book.
iSpeed comes with two little programs that have helped me greatly in every car. The HUD is handy for split times and pace information. Although some of this is built into iRacing anyway, it's still handy if you want it bigger, laid out differently or on another device (like on a phone, how I use it). There's also a neat little live fuel indicator built in that tells you more accurately how many laps of fuel you have left. It's not 100%, but it's good enough that my engine only just sputtered as I crossed the line at Zolder this season.
The second program is even more valuable. iSpeed's Lap Analyser enables you to load a graphical view of your lap against anyone else who is using iSpeed. You can see driving line, throttle inputs, brake inputs, steering angles, lateral acceleration, just to name a few. You'll soon see why that driver is getting through Turn 1 at Suzuka quicker than you.
Next the book. (Ack, a book? Why not a PDF? I've tried. I couldn't find it. I bought it. It's worth it)
I'm only about a third of the way through this book, reading bits here and there when I get time and I've learned a heap from it (and gotten a little quicker). If you're a real life racer, or an alien, then this book might not be worth the outlay. You'll likely already know it. But if you're a hobbyist, enthusiast or even just a casual viewer, I'd give it a try. We spend significantly more on the computer, wheels, pedals, seats, shifters, triple screens, subscription and everything else. For under $30 I reckon it's a decent investment.
You can get into Motec/Atlas, but that's more about tweaking setup. Sure you can load up your laps and compare one to the other, but I'm thinking if you're at that stage, you're not reading this guide anyway. There's plenty of forum threads covering them in the Telemetry section anyway.
That's probably enough from me.
This is what I've learned in the 18 months - 2 years or so I've been racing the V8. I've gone from a struggling 3rd splitter, to a top ten top splitter using these tools. I'm not saying I'm the best (some guys have improved quicker) or that this is the only way to do it, but it's how I got better.
Creating A Setup
- Baseline Setup
Very good, however the front pressures are way too high. Look at having around 138-145kpa starting pressures all round, depending on the track and weather. 5 laps around any track will give you an indication of which tyres to pump up and which to drop off.
- Straight line Speed
Having almost no variance between the front and rear ride heights will give you alot more straightline speed than having a wide variance.
Aim for no more than 10-20mm difference between the front and rear ride heights. Keeping the rear wing at maximum values still seems to be the way to go, as I haven't found any benefit running it lower. You end up maybe 1-2km faster down a straight, but your grip through the corners is alot worse.
- Corner Entry*
Diff ratio & Rear Wing
- Rear end ratio
Settings: 3.75, 3.50, 3.25, 3.15
3.75 is the shortest gearing = faster acceleration, lower top speed.
3.15 is the tallest gearing = slower acceleration, but higher top speed.
Adjust this at each track on the longest straight. You will need to make sure that you aren't hitting the limiter for too long at the end of the straight. Also consider what will happen in the draft of another car, if you are hitting the limiter, then you probably wont be going faster than the car ahead and wont be able to pass.
As Muggo as has said in the first post, more often than not you get the best results by matching the top of 6th gear with the longest straight. However for some tracks, and definitely depending on the weather, I have run alot longer gearing in order to either save tyres, or save fuel. E.G at Brands this season, you could easily use 3.50s or 3.75s, however I ran with 3.25s.
- Rear Wing Setting
Settings: Min: 8 Max: 18
Currently the physics make changing this setting from anything other than 18 a waste of time, so don't touch it!
- Front Brake Bias
Typical setting range: Min: 64%, Max: 68%
A lower number means more rearward bias (rears will lock first).
A higher number means more frontward bias (fronts will lock first).
This is all down to feel and driving technique. I usually set the brake bias around 65% and then move forward or backward depending if i'm locking fronts or rears. Remember this can also be helped to use the car turn on trial braking so move rearward if this is what you are looking for.
**Note** Big blips on downshift can help against locking rears into corners.
- Anti-Roll Bars (ARBs)
Front Min: 20mm Max: 60mm
Rear Min: 0mm Max: 40mm
For best results I've found running 60mm on the front, and 24-38mm on the rear, depending on the track. If the car really needs more front grip I will lower the front maybe one or two clicks.
Anti roll bars perform 2 main functions: (1) Resist body roll, by resisting body roll we try to maintain the car in a relatively stable platform. (2) Tune the handling balance through transfer of weight between both the inside and outside tyres at the same end, and also the front/rear balance. Speaking in generalities:
- Front ARB
* Softening the front ARB will give you more front end grip with better turn-in, but it can also have a negative effect of unsettling the rear.
* Stiffening the front ARB size reduces front end grip, but can help to settle the rear off the corner.
- Rear ARB
* Softening the rear ARB will give you more rear end grip off the corner.
* Stiffening the rear ARB will give the car more turn off the rear, with the ability to hold higher mid corner speeds, but it will also make the car want to fry the rear tyres if you aren't careful on the throttle off the corners.
** The stiffer the anti roll bars are, the less compliance the wheels will have with bumpy sections of the track, so you might need to play with brake bias if you start locking up one end more than the other after bar changes.
** Also remember you then have the in car adjustable settings to play with once you have the in garage bars set.
- In Car Anti-Roll Bar Setting(ARBs)
Settings: Min: 1 (soft) Max: 5 (hard)
As a rule I try to keep these at 3 and 3 when in a race setup. This gives you the freedom to change the front or the rear based on how the car is feeling. In Qualifying they can be very useful in finding those fractions of a second when you're happy with the overall feeling of the car.
- ARB Preloads
We generally try and get these as close to 0.0 as we can. once you have the ARB's set how you want them, you can adjust the pre-loads by playing around with the perch offset to get these values as close to 0 as possible.
I tend to approach these differently to Muggo. The rear I can never get to 0.0 due to the high rear roll bar, but I will often try to match front corner weights by manipulating the front preload, in either negative or positive directions.
- Front roll centre
Settings: Min: 30mm Max: 90mm
The front roll centre adjustment helps control how weight is transferred between front and rear in roll. It has most effect on on-throttle steering during mid corner, and corner exit.
* Lower the front roll centre for more on throttle turning, more oversteer - best on smooth high grip tracks with long fast corners.
* Raise the front roll centre for less on throttle turning, more understeer - use on tracks with quick direction changes (chicanes).
I usually run with this between 80-90mm.
- Rear coll centre (Watts Link height)
Settings: Min: 152mmMax: 305mm
The rear roll centre (Watts Link Height) adjustment helps control how weight is transferred between front and rear in roll, it affects both on and off throttle handling in all cornering phases (turn in, mid corner and exit).
* Raising the rear watts link height gives the car more turn (promotes oversteer) by tilting the roll axis towards the front. The car will be more responsive - use on higher grip tracks, or when quick direction changes are required.
* Lowering the watts tilts the roll axis towards the rear, helping the car with more traction on the rear and to aid looking after the rear tyres on lower grip tracks (promotes understeer).
Depending on the track, I will never run this lower than 250mm, and will always try and get it to 305mm as much as possible.
- Ballast forward (nose weight)
Settings: Min: -1mm Max: +1269mm
Of late, I've run with -1mm all the time.
- Cross weight / Corner Weights
Aim for 50% cross weight.
- Tyre Pressures & Temps
Still haven't figured this out. At Bathurst last season when it was cold, my best laps were done with last hot pressures around 175kpa, instead of the usual 190kpa. The main thing with tyres is avoiding them getting hot. As soon as you go over about 116 degrees celsius, the tyres go to mush. Need to find a nice balance between the pressures and cambers.
For me and my team mates we have a general rule that no matter what we do in the V8 that when we get out of the car after it be a qually run or race run we always like the tyres to be around 190kpa as the "Last Hot Pressure".
* So by that if you are to do a race run we will start with cold tyre pressures of around 135kpa and it seems to come back around the golden 190kpa mark.
* For a qually run you need to put the last cold pressures at around 165kpa and do a 20sec slower out lap making sure you don't heat them up or scrub them sideways. They should come back at 190kpa.
The 190kpa seems to us to be the ultimate grip level in the V8 but other people may have different ideas. Every time the tyres gets over 200kpa the car just likes to slide to much. The tyre temps seem to be completely irrelevant in this build. I don't even look at the temps. For example this week I have tried a few different settings with varying temps but my times don't change.
Suspension & Steering
- Steering Ratio
Settings: 10:1, 12:1, 14:1, 16:1
The higher the ratio, the more you need to rotate the steering wheel to turn the front wheels the same angle as compared to a lower steering ratio (with 10:1 being lowest, 16:1 being highest).
10:1 is great for catching slides, but makes the car twitchy. 12:1 gives the car a more smooth but less responsive feel, and catching slides is alot tougher, however due to the less responsive inputs, I reckon tyre life and wear is alot better over a stint, its just harder to drive than the twitchy 10:1 ratio.
Camber range for me this season has been about 2.0-2.8 depending on the track.
Pretty important part of the cars durability over a race stint. The higher the camber the hotter your tyres will be and the less grip you'll eventually have. Really good for maximising grip on the fronts, but important to find the balance between camber and tyre pressure. A good thing to look for is to do a stint and try and make the front inside and middle tyre temps and tread remaining relatively close, within 3-5 degrees. Its all about getting that contact patch nice and big, but not too much that you cause more friction and burn the tyres up. Also I try and aim for the same tread wear remaining on the inside and middle of the tyre. Others might do it differently.
An important thing to remember is that you want to maximise contact patch in corners, and too much camber won't utilise the outside of the tyre on the lower load corners, but too little camber will overload the whole tyre on the higher load corners and scrub more.
I haven't deviated from +16.0 caster for the past two seasons. Changing it changes the characteristics of the feedback and feeling through the wheel, so I try and keep this the same at all tracks.
A good thing to change when you want a bit more turn in at the front, or more stability in the rear.
Normally run between -1 to -5 on the front, the more negative the value the more responsive the front is on turn in.
Usually run 0 on the rears, however it can be beneficial to run +1 to help stabilise the car on bumpy tracks.
The higher the number of toe on the front or the rears the more your overall straightline speed is affected, so on high speed tracks its better to use lower values.
- Spring Perch Offset: Ride Heights & Rake
Rake = the difference between the front and rear ride heights.
There is no rake bug anymore, rake now acts in a more realistic way i.e. try to keep a difference of 0-20mm between the front and back of your cars ride height.
Front: Min: 65 N/mm Max: 210 N/mm
Rear: Min: 37 N/mm Max: 130 N/mm
Now that the rake hack has been fixed, rear springs are usually around 60-70nm, fronts are around 170-190Nm for me.
Probably the first major thing you should adjust when looking at car balance and handling. It will have the biggest impact on the car, even one click can have a large effect. Softer rear springs will help drive out of the corners, stiffer rear springs will help with turn in and rolling speed in the corners.
Front springs give more grip when run softer at the front, but can hurt mid corner speed if too soft and bog your car down.
The car tends to like to be set up fairly stiff at the front, and can vary from soft to stiff in the rear.
ong class="bbc">Understanding your Dampers: A guide from Jim Kasprzak
The dampers can be a key part of your suspension tuning tools. Unlike springs and anti-roll bars that generate force with displacement, dampers generate force with velocity. This gives them two unique properties that are highly useful;
1) They control the RATE of weight transfer by the springs and anti-roll bars, and
2) They work like dynamic springs.
When controlling the rate of weight transfer the dampers are timing devices, delivering or removing load at the right time in the corner to maximize the grip of the tires. As dynamic springs, the dampers momentarily work like springs, exerting force based on velocity instead of displacement.
With these properties the dampers are very influential to the handling characteristics of the vehicle during transitions. These transitions include braking, turning into the corner, transition from turning to acceleration, and acceleration.
One way I like describe dampers are momentary or transient springs. In steady-state conditions, such as a car going around a skid-pad, dampers have basically no effect. However under transient conditions as corner entry and corner exit, the dampers react similar to a spring, but only momentarily. So a stiffer bump damper in the rear will make the car initially have less grip at the moment you turn-in for a corner, but once the car is in mid-corner, this effect lessens or even goes to zero. Also, unlike a spring, which is linear and produces the same force in bump and rebound, the damper can produce different forces under bump and rebound. So while stiffer bump causes an increased resistance to upwards movement of the wheel, a stiffer rebound reduces the speed at which the wheels can move back down (although you probably want to think in terms of increasing or decreasing forces at the contact patch instead of upward or downward movement of the wheel).
Let's pretend we have a flat 90 degree right corner, and the car drives the line below.
What happens to each damper when the car travels from:
1. Approach to turn-in
2. Turn-in to apex
3. Apex to corner exit
What happens to the weight transfer in 1,2, and 3?
Jeremy Spiering wrote:
1. Approach to turn-in
Assuming the car is breaking in a straight line at this point, both front dampers are in compression (bump) and both rear dampers are in rebound (droop). Assuming at this point we are in steady state braking, all four dampers have very little effect, since they only effect transient conditions (when there is a velocity component to the dampers).
2. Turn-in to apex
As the car turns in, the left side dampers begin to compress, while the right side dampers begin to go into rebound. This isn't always true, but generally, it is. Since we have just started to turn-in, the dampers are moving (they have a velocity component to them) so they will effect the weight transfer. Stiffer front-left damper in bump will cause more weight to initially shift to the front left tire, which in turn means less weight will transfer to the rear-left tire. In general, this will cause less grip to the front end make the car tend more toward understeer. This may seem counter-intuitive, because you think of increased load giving more grip, but you must remember the load-sensitivity I mentioned in an earlier post. While it is true you are gaining grip on the front left tire,you are losing more grip on the right(inside) front tire than you are gaining on the left-front tire. So the total front-grip of the car is less when more weight transfer occurs across the front tires. Like everything this isn't always the case, but speaking in generalities, it is true.
3. Apex to corner exit
From apex to corner exit many things can happen to the dampers, but generally as you unwind the steering wheel and straight out the car, the left side dampers begin to reverse direction of travel and start traveling in rebound, while the right-side tires begin to move into compression. Also remember you are probably beginning to accelerate, so there also the effects of weight transfer shifting rear-ward, causing the rear-dampers to go into compression, while the front tires go into rebound. The only way to know for sure which dampers are in compression and rebound is to take the combined lateral and longitudinal accelerations caused by cornering and accelerating.
As you increase bump on any damper that is in compression in the examples above, you are causing MORE load to initially transfer to the tire.
As you decrease bump on any damper that is in compression in the examples above, you are causing LESS load to initially transfer to the tire.
As you increase rebound on any damper that is in rebound in the examples above, you are causing LESS load to initially transfer to the tire.
As you decrease rebound on any damper that is in rebound in the examples above, you are causing MORE load initially transfer to the tire.
To tune your dampers:
1. Determine what handling characteristic you want to change
2. Determine the direction of travel of each damper in the situation you want to fix
3. Adjust the damper to increase or decrease the load at the tires using the examples above
For instance, lets say we want to dial-out turn-in understeer.
1. Turn-in under steer is the handling characteristic
2. While turning-in to a corner, the inside dampers are in rebound, the outside tires are in compression
3. Soften front compression on dampers to decrease initial load transfer to front outside tire, which will give an overall increase in front grip, which might help cure turn-in understeer.
There is a lot more to it, but this is a good start.
- Front Bump*
Settings: Min: 0 Max: 32
- Rear Bump*
Settings: Min: 0 Max: 32
- Front Rebound*
Settings: Min: 0 Max: 32
- Rear Rebound*
Settings: Min: 0 Max: 32